The Cats of Spain (Lynn Kerstan)

While I can now manage to sign on to WordPress to post a blog, the pictures and the text are randomly deleted or wind up garbled. No one else seems to have that problem, but nothing I do seems to work. And I’ve been posting on StoryBroads for many years. It’s a mystery. I was trying to write about the cats of Spain and had some wonderful pictures. Some were dropped, most of the blog text was crammed into one photo caption, and by no means could I have caused that to happen. It all looked fine until I hit the “Publish” button. So, no pictures. No interesting pictures from the trip.

Otherwise, it was a pretty good day. I had my semi-annual tests and appointment with my oncologist to see if the lymphoma that took me down in 2008 is still in check, and the results were good. So I celebrated with lamb chops and roasted potatoes, which I’ll need to walk off tomorrow at the beach.

Meantime, I’ll leave the blog space to those who can fill it with good stuff. I tried, really.

Cordoba and the Forest of Stone (Lynn Kerstan)

Even the trees love one another.

At one period of time in its long existence, during the 10th and early 11th centuries, the Andalusian city of Cordoba had a larger population than any other city in the world.  Estimates run up to a million residents. It was the center of learning, and a place where Muslims, Christians and Jews lived in accord. Inside the Old Town, surrounded by Roman walls, the Cathedral, the Great Mosque, and the Jewish Quarter nestle peacefully together.

 

"It's a jungle in here," sez Lonzo, utterly lost.

 

 

 

Every which way you look, arches provide passage to nowhere.

 

 

 

 

Marble floors like mirrors reflect the light and the arches.

 

 

 

 

Christian chapels like this one ring the walls of the mosque

 

 

 

 

 

The Christian choir centers the mosque. I am not happy that it is there.

 

 

The Roman bridge, built a couple thousand years ago and still doing its job.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pictures of Ronda (The Dream City) Lynn Kerstan

A lovely park

Near the park is the bullring and an imposing statue.

The gorge made famous by Ernest Hemingway.

The church is the anchor buiding in the town square.

A statue in the town square. To help resist the heat of summer, most buildings in southern Spain are white.

The view from the other side of the city. Perched on a promontory, Ronda has always been a tough town to invade.

To Dream the Impossible Dream (Lynn Kerstan)

Giants or Windmills? You make the call.

In a village of La Mancha, the name of which I have no desire to call to mind, there lived not long since one of those gentlemen that keep a lance in the lance-rack, an old buckler, a lean hack, and a greyhound for coursing. —Miguel de Cervantes

On the fifth day of our trip, after a morning spent exploring Toledo, our bus carried us into the dry, windy area of La Mancha. There, large white windmills stood like silent ghosts at the tops of hills, their blades unmoving. Everyone remembers that Don Quixote, fancying they were giants, took up his lance and fought the blades, which he thought were the arms of the giants. He lost. “Tilting at windmills” has come to mean engaging in a useless battle you can’t win but feel compelled to fight.

 

 

A leopard in a windmill. That doesn't happen every day.

Poor Quixote, a retired 50ish businessman, had been reading too many books about chivalry and knights and battles and rescuing lovely put-upon women. He armed himself and set out to fulfill his destiny: become a knight errant. Errant wound up being the operative word. A fictional character created  in 1605, he nonetheless seemed very present as we stopped to visit a windmill used by a local family to sell souvenirs, oil, and saffron to tourists. Our leader, Victor, had called to let them know we were coming, and he assured us the prices were fair. Never on our tour did we have reason to doubt him. Well, maybe the carpet factory in Tangier, but the mint tea was terrific. Anyway, as we left that chain of windmills, we were happy to see another hill on which a few actually in operation. Victor was surprised.

Just call me Dulcinea. Yes, that's Lonzo on his arm.

Then came our “rest stop” at a small, charming complex, the Venta del Quixote, with a bar and much-welcome rest rooms. Don Quixote was there to greet us. He’s invariably depicted as a gaunt, straight-backed, armored man with a lance and shield. We all lined up for a photo op. Even Lonzo, who also inspected a cart that looked very old and much the worse for wear. Somewhat like I was looking about that time, come to think of it.

Any rider heavier than Lonzo would probably collapse this antique cart. I'd have reduced it to splinters.

 

 

 

 

For perspective, consider the size of the tables and chairs.

I’m hoping Pat remembers what these enormous vats contain. Wine, perhaps, because this wasn’t olive oil country. After some time spent at the bar, we got the call to board the bus and off we went. Destination Cordoba, 142 miles due south. From Madrid to Toledo to Cordoba made for a long day, so there was a lot of snoozing on the bus. It finally disgorged us in front of our hotel, where a buffet dinner with wine awaited us. I don’t remember what happened after that.

 

 

 

The Wonders of Toledo (Lynn Kerstan)

Toledo, dominated by the Alcazar and protected by the river.

Looking at the landscape of Toledo (Spain), it’s easy to understand why this promontory in the middle of the flatland has been inhabited since the Bronze Age. Many invaders have populated and tried to rule the Iberian Peninsula—Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, and Bonaparte’s French Army—but Toledo was more than difficult to attack. Dominated by the Alcazar (an Arabic/Latin word meaning Castle/Fortress) and surrounded on three sides by the moat-like River Tagus, Toledo could fend off attacks by all but the most powerful armies.

Viewing ther city from the other side of the Tagus, I thought I had time-traveled back to the Middle Ages. There are only two bridges, one built by the Romans and the other constructed in medieval times. From this perspective, nothing whatever looks remotely modern. But that changed when our modern Mercedes bus carried us across the river and dropped us at the gate. No busses allowed on the narrow, winding streets of the city, population about 80,000. There was nowhere for us to go but up. On our feet. Yikes.

There were four or five pairs of long, steep escalators, one after the other, all going up.

And then, a miracle. The invasion of Tourist Hordes has dragged one small but vital portion of Toledo into the 21st Century. A long, multi-leveled escalator! Which is probably the only reason I made it to the top of Toledo.

Ferdinand and Isabella

For a long time, it was the capital of Castile and La Mancha and, practically speaking, much of Spain. But in 1492, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella (best known to Americans as the rulers who financed the voyage of Columbus) moved the capital to Madrid, only thirty-five or so miles north. What remains has endured for a very long time. In Spain, the most impressive building in any town or city is usually the Catholic church or cathedral. Or the mosque, or the synagogue, although most of those that were preserved from destruction by anti-Other factions still exist because they were absorbed into Christian places of worship.

 

 

The Cathdral wears the chains of captive Christians.

Despite the banishing of Jews and Muslims by Ferdinand and Isabella, the religious tolerance for which Toledo had become famous persisted and eventually led to a remarkable alliance among the faiths, so often at war or being victimized by the dominant faith at any given time. Holy writings and documents were translated into Arabic, Spanish, Latin, and Hebrew. People came together in common interests. They learned to live  in peace and mutual support. In the picture of the Catholic cathedral, you can see chains hanging from the externals walls. Not a great many nowadays. They were the chains of the Christians enslaved by the then-ruling Muslims until they were overthrown. Was a time when the walls of the cathedral were covered with those chains. Then, in need of metal, the people melted most of the chains for other uses and left a few as a symbol of slavery and its end in Toledo.

El Greco.

The great Cretan artist known as El Greco spent much of his life in Toledo, and one of his finest paintings is the treasure of a 12th-Century  church that was restored and enlarged in the 14th Century. It’s known as “The Burial of Count Orgaz”. Guess who paid for the church’s restoration.

 

 

 

This is only the bottom third of The Burial of Count Orgaz. Above it is the transition to heaven, where Mary, John the Baptist, and Jesus wait for the angels to escort him there.

If only to save model fees, El Greco liked to paint himself and family members into his pictures. See if you can find him and his son in the bottom portion of this glorious painting. Our local guide delighted us with a long, clear, remarkable explanation of the painting, the historical people represented, the symbolism, and the artistic wonders of El Greco’s talent. It was like opening a door to this artist and what we were seeing. I’m so ignorant about art that this was a real treat and one of my favorite experiences in Spain.

Of course, Lonzo the Leopard enjoyed Toledo and quickly became a devoted fan of El Greco. He requests that instead of his own shaggy self perched on a pillar or a doorlatch, I post a picture of Toledo painted by El Greco when he first moved there in the late 1570s. Except for the addition of cars, tourist shops, and McDonald’s, not a whole lot has changed since then.

El Greco, who knew Raphael, Michelangelo, and most of the great Renaissance artists, paints his new home.

 

 

 

 

 

Lonzo the Leopard Unlurks (Lymond de Sevigny)

Heed my words, Grasshopper, and follow my path to wisdom.

Before I was stuffed in the suitcase for the long trip to Spain, my fellow feline Lymond, Monsieur le Comte de Sevigny, was gracious enough to profer advice about what to expect from  the Can-Opener. Unfortunately, I am not able to scamper to the top of the cat tree or, for that matter, anywhere at all. Nor can I meow a complaint, and being unable to eat, I have no use for a Can-Opener. For that reason, I think of Lynn as the Packer.

 

 

A traveller appears to have forgotten his coat and hat and cane.

My assignment, other than to protect Lynn’s purse from pickpockets by standing guard at the entrance, was to enhance pictures with my presence. Lymond had dubbed me his surrogate, so I tried to behave with the dignity he would have exhibited, even in the awkward and sometimes frightening positions I found myself in. Here, we are in the train station, the one bombed in  2004. Nearly two hundred people died, and 1800 were injured.

 

Pigeons and turtles, the fast and the slow. Much like trains. And people.

Today, there is no sign of damage, but the very beauty of the station and the quiet water garden at its center is a soft rebuke to those who choose violence over tolerance and peace. With great distances between most of Spain’s larger cities, Alta Velocidad Espanola is an essential means of transportation. The acronym for Spanish High Speed, AVE, is Spanish for “bird” and the trains practically fly at speeds of nearly 200 mph. As we traveled by bus, we saw many of these “birds” swishing past us, sleek and smooth. I should like to ride them one day.

 

 

Lonzo on Latch, guarding the door.

Some of my poses were, I’m afraid, demeaning to my species. Here I am plunked on the door latch of Madrid’s oldest still-in-business restaurant. It was closed, but only for “siesta hours.” Spaniard have dinner around eleven o’clock at night, although tapa bars and small cafes serve those who are not night owls. Fast food establishments like McDonald’s and Burger King are very popular, and we saw them everywhere.

 

 

In the land of the broken men, there is only silence.

Other poses meant a great deal to me. Here, I honor those who died in the Spanish Civil War (more about the civil war in a later post), the broken men torn apart, as was their country for many years. The lust for power is a terrible thing. I, who am utterly powerless, have no shred of desire to harm anyone, even if doing so would allow me to run free and wild.

 

 

The Many Faces of Madrid (Lynn Kerstan)

Beautiful Buildings AboundIn Madrid, there is no shortage of elegant, ornate buildings. Even many new buildings are created in the style of the Spanish Renaissance, which I recognize because my own alma mater here in San Diego is modeled in that style. The artists, apparently fueled by wine, saw no need for painting clothes on some of these characters. The building is part of the Plaza Mayor.

But there are some very strange buildings as well, and they are beautiful in their own way.

The strangeness doesn’t stop with the buildings. Statues abound, honoring kings and queens and war heroes, although the odd ones are far more interesting.

He appeared to be crafted in brown cement, meant to honor the average citizens of Madrid. Pat enlightened me by dropping a coin near his feet. He waved his thanks.

Like this guy, ensconced on a park bench near the Royal Palace. Performance art is everywhere.

Lonzo wouldn't let me strip, so I settled for taking a picture of another snoozer.

 

 

In Madrid, you can see just about anything. The city is a banquet. Auntie Mame would have loved Madrid.

After a long day of touring Madrid, I decided to do a little performance art of my own. It was a warm afternoon, and I needed a nap, but I got sidetracked by a chef who set up his business near a popular tourist stop. We weren’t there long enough to sample his wares, but it looked good.

Lonzo insists that next Friday, he will present his own commentary on Madrid. I hope he hasn't learned sarcasm from Monsieur lle Comte de Sevigny.

Yes, Lonzo the Leopard was with me, not that he had much choice. I made sure he had a good view.