Heading South at Last (Lynn Kerstan)

Sorrento straight ahead

With Lonzo at the wheel of the bus, we left Tuscany (sigh) and set our sights on Sorrento. There was little of great interest to see out the windows. We were on a four-lane divided highway with lots of trucks, and boring  fields growing something or other on each side. Only once did I see something that caught my attention. Atop a high cliff, looking over a wide flat valley with several small towns at the bottom, was what seemed to be a remarkably beautiful building. I asked the tour leader about it, and she said we’d be stopping there on the way to Rome for our return flights. Wouldn’t tell me what it was.

A view of Sorrento, Population about 17,000

Late that afternoon, we arrived in Sorrento, dropped our luggage at the hotel where we’d stay for a week, and on request, the bus took some of us us to the nearest super market for wine, soft drinks, fruit, and snacks. Mostly for wine. I hadn’t yet become addicted to limoncello. Sorrento dates from before the Roman era. It overlooks the Bay of Naples and is protected in several places by deep gorges. We were based there because of easy access to Naples, Pompeii, and the Amalfi Coast.

One of many gorges in the town.

But first, we did a walking tour of Sorrento. There are lots of hotels, because this is a tourist destination for most of the year, and lots of tacky souvenirs to be had in small, open-air shops. There is also a lovely store that sells only limoncello in many charming glass containers. Alas, my suitcase would not accommodate or survive an effort to bring some home with me.

Another gorge, a few blocks from our hotel. The building is what remains of a paper factory after a century or two.

For all our walking around, I managed to get lost in Sorrento several times. For the tourists, the town posts maps on tube-shaped metal pillars for loons like me. What it fails to do is tell you where you are. There’s a logo that says You Are Here, but it’s on the smooth top of the tubed map. Well, yes, I was there at the tube and the map, but I never found out where on the map the tube and I actually were. Traveling without Pat is tough. She’s the one with the sense of direction.

The remnants of a Roman aqueduct in the middle of town. I love that it’s still there and cared for.

 

 

 

Sorrento is also noted for woodwork, especially inlaid furniture. Many members of our group broke away to check out the street where those shops could be found. I went looking for aspects of normal life in Sorrento, and found exactly what Pat would have been happy to see: someone petting a dog.

All in all, I liked the town. In every shop, the merchants were friendly and helpful. No rain. Comfortable hotel rooms and good breakfasts. Italians mostly eat fruit, cereals, rolls, and pastries. For us Americans, they provided scrambled eggs and bacon. Undercooked bacon left to lie in the grease, and overcooked scrambled eggs left to get cold. But they tried. And the croissants were delicious and feathery.

Buon giorno, puppy dog. May I shake your paw?

Still Trapped in Tuscany (Lynn Kerstan)

In a small hill town, a remarkable cheese shop.

I just cannot bear to leave this wonderful place until I share a few more of my favorite kinds of pictures: The Odd Stuff and The Eccentric Stuff and The Really Beautiful Stuff. For starters, storefront windows.

Look at the size of some of those cheeses. Not gonna be easy to get them into the suitcase. But for an additional charge, they will gladly ship them to your home. If Pat had been with me, we’d have bought a small cheese and some crusty bread or crackers and more bottles of wine for our enjoyment in the evening.

A mounted wild boar head in the window.

A Tuscan specialty is wild boar. They’re not protected. You can chase one down and haul it off to your home and try to figure out how to dissect it into edible parts. We tasted some at a restaurant meal and it was truly delicious. In this shop, you can buy a panino (a sandwich made with some kind of roll instead of sliced bread) and have it filled with wild boar meat and cheese.

Any guess about what you can buy there?

Here’s an altogether different kind of shop window. I’ve no idea what they were selling (the store was closed on Sunday), but the display is beautiful.

On another subject entirely, Italians appear to be real fans of spas, particularly thermal spas. Our hotel in Tuscany was located in an area with underground thermal waters and it specialized in hosting guests who came for the “treatments.” None of us were interested, although I bet Pat would’ve been.

The edge of the small canal is directly in front.

Here are pictures of an outdoor spa atop a Tuscan hill. On another part of the property is a swimming pool filled with warm thermal water that rises up from its source and gets tapped into. Our group went to the spot on the hill where the water follows a stone canal and drops off the edge of the high cliff.

Lonzo decided to stay and watch humans bathing their paws.

Most of our group stripped off shoes and socks, sat on the rough-stone edge, and soaked their feet in the warm water. Our tour leader had advised us to bring a small towel on that day’s bus tour, but didn’t  ‘splain why. It was a cool day, and I chose to wander around the rest of the spa, where I encountered some cats that gave me a bored look and padded away.

The ruins atop that hill probably date back to Roman or Etruscan times. Most likely this place became a spa more than twenty centuries a go.

Rumors of  the tour leader distributing cookies and small glasses of wine sent me back to where the group members were drying their feet and putting on their shoes and socks. They all said the water felt really good. And the wine/cookie rumor turned out the be true. A lovely way to end the day.

Heavenly.

Last Days in Tuscany–Sob (Lynn Kerstan)

A view from the top of Cortona, facing northeast. In the distance is Lake Trasimeno, largest lake on the Italy peninsula. It was visible from Assisi as well.

Time to head south, but not before we visit the most famous Italian Hill Town. I expect many of you have read the best-selling book or seen the popular movie inspired by that book: Under the Tuscan Sun. Film locations are not always accurate, but it appears some images strongly resemble Cortona. Apparently, the villa restored by Frances Mayes was on a nearby hill. In either case, watch the movie and you’ll enjoy lots of Tuscan scenery. And a good story!

Can leopards get a suntan?

Lonzo met a cat while I was trying to take a picture, but the cat scampered off, which left me with a church (ubiquitous in Italy), on the other side of the hill town.

 

 

 

 

Public Accommodations! That’s Sue (another Californian) in the background with her professional camera and skills. She’s a terrific travel companion.

If the views are spectacular, the innards of Cortona are not. Plenty of small-Italian-hill-town-charm, though, with narrow, winding streets, cheese shops, wine shops, and a rare toilet for those in need. I wasn’t, so i can’t tell you about sanitation and the existence of toilet paper. I do know that it is always wise for a tourist to carry a wad of TP, just in case.

 

Not much room in hill towns for wide streets.

Another street in Cortona, proving that parts of the town haven’t changed in many hundreds of years. But some parts of the small town (23,000 people), like this residential street, represent the results of prosperity, much of it due to tourism.

Cortona has existed since the rise and fall of the Roman Empire, and was settled by the Etruscans. I love the Etruscans and will share my affection for them in a future blog.

Meantime  (when I was traveling), I had to pack for the great move to the south of Italy. We’d spent a week at the hotel in Chianciano, so after I wrestled clothes and supplies into my suitcase, I went out to buy an umbrella. The one I brought got stretched beyond its limits early on. A fellow traveler, who had the same problem and found a large, sturdy ‘brella for 5 euros, pointed me to the shop.

As I walked up the hill (remember, all walks in Italy are uphill), I was thrilled to see a tribute to a superb cat-tender and one of the finest, most interesting, and most fun people I have ever known. And happily, someone I still know, although I keep forgetting to take her the small souvenirs I brought from Italy, along with a bottle of home-brewed (by me) limoncello, to which I became addicted. But Chianciano must have heard about her, because there it was. Her name, in letters taller than I am.

Why Pat Potter Is Not Blogging Today (Lynn Kerstan)

Pat knows it’s good to be the Queen, even when she can’t stop laughing during our amateur theatrics. The picture is from a small-ship tour to the Dalmatian Coast three years ago.

Just a quick note to let you all know that a couple days ago, Pat had a long anticipated knee replacement. The surgery went splendidly, without problems or pain, and good meds have kept her very comfortable. She’s doing great, but there’s physical therapy scheduled for a couple of weeks, and we’re not sure when she’ll be back home and at the computer.

She sends you all her best, and yes, Kate and Allie are being well cared for. Pat and the pooches will be in the pool together very soon.

Farewell to Assisi and Umbria (Lynn Kerstan)

The long, lofty Uphill Walk to the Basilica of St. Francis, made beautiful by the pink-and-cream-colored granite.

To everyone’s relief, I’m sure, we’re nearly done with Assisi.

FYI, a number of movies have been made about the life of Saint Francis. In the evening after we returned to the hotel from visiting the town and the churches, we got to see one version. “Brother Sun, Sister Moon” was a 1972 film directed by Franco Zeffirelli, and it’s very long. The general response was, We Didn’t Like It. But there are some wonderful things in the film, including many locations of great beauty in Umbria.

A cypress tree stands like a sentinel as we look at a long-distance view.

Here’s a view of the countryside from the top of the hill. In the distance is a lake. Not many of those in Italy, and the only one I knew about was Lake Como, where George Clooney has a lovely home. I still can’t believe I was in Italy for three weeks and he never called or sent an e-mail.  Sigh.

Another scenic view, this one from the top of the Basilica.

 

Although the scenery and the gloriously beautiful landscape are amazing, I mostly loved the little, special treats that are around almost every corner. Some make no sense, some are just plain silly, and some are utterly delightful.

 

A common scene in a hill town.

 

 

 

 

Fountains like this were created whenever possible. Otherwise, water would have to be lugged up by–you guessed it–women.

 

.

An artist  at work in the town of Assisi.

 

 

 

Wrought-iron art is common in the hill towns. Here, someone or something is trying to drive away a dragon.

We’re almost done with Tuscany, which was heavenly. Coming soon, we’ll head south to Sorrento and the land of Limoncello, which is utterly delicious. And to Naples, and Mount Vesuvius and Pompeii and the Isle of Capri and the Amalfi Coast. Italy is chock-full of wondrous things to see and experience.

But there are mysteries as well. This shop window in Assisi, with two piles of three rocks, escapes my understanding. Any guesses what it signifies?

The Town of Assisi (Lynn Kerstan)

A long-distant view of the Basilica under a cloudy sky.

Last week I wrote about Saint Francis of Assisi, so today will be for pictures of the town. The Basilica and parts of the town town are perched on the side of Mount Subasio. The pink granite stone glows in the sunlight, which we were fortunate to have for the entire day. Well, almost.

As we approached the Basilica, I saw a statue that I call The Desolate Rider. It seemed a strange image to welcome people who are just arriving.

I like unusual things, the sort you’re not apt to see elsewhere or again. But on the way back to our rendezvous with the bus, I had time to study the location.

To the left of the desolate rider is a bush of some sort sculpted into a cross. Beneath it, more plants, spelling PAX. Peace. So, this bit of greenery near the entrance of town calls for peace and mourns the times when there was war instead.

I love any country that honors its great writers. Their works live forever.

Many narrow, one-lane roads in Assisi permits cars, but this is not among them.  As you know, all roads in Italy are uphill.

Nearby, I saw one of many tributes throughout Italy to it’s greatest poet, Dante Alighieri. That inspired Lonzo, who knew that I once had a cat named Dante.

Much of Assisi is dedicated to the tourists who throng there, as are many of Italy’s towns. “Dedication” means providing what they want and need, not including easy access to lavatories. But if you want a Saint Francis souvenir–mostly little wooden statues of the saint–there’s a whole industry devoted to providing them. I bought a small Christmas ornament depicting the stable and manger and Mary and Joseph and the infant Jesus. That’s because it was Francis who created the idea of Nativity Scenes. The guy was really smart and very creative. Mine will hang on my tree this year, if I can remember where I stashed it.

Lymond here, introducing an Assisi Cat. He gets to go outside! Not exactly tempting, looking at his surroundings. But St. Francis would’ve loved him. Meantime, I’m still waiting for supper.

Of course, Food is needed as well, so there was plenty of access to The Italy Big Three: Pizza, Pasta, and Gelato (ice cream). Our tour included lunch at a crowded local restaurant, and in Italy, a meal includes a glass of wine. Then we were on our own again, and I’ll provide more pictures and narrative about Assisi next week. There are are many reasons why this was my very favorite place in Italy.

Arriverderci! (meaning “Bye for Now, See You Again)

The Saint of Poverty (Lynn Kerstan)

The Basilica in Assisi, where Saint Francis of Assisi is buried.

Of all the wondrous places I visited in Italy, the town of Assisi in Umbria is my favorite. I liked it so much that I’ll need two blogs, one about the town itself, and this one about the reason millions and millions of people go there: Saint Francis of Assisi. Recently, the new pope chose to adopt the name of Francis (Francesco in Italian), and I suspect the Saint would be amused. He himself was named Giovanni by his father, but dad, on his return from a successful business trip to France, renamed his son Francesco, which means “The Frenchman.”

Inside the Basilica. No signs of Holy Poverty here.

Born the son of a successful cloth merchant in 1181, Francis lived in comfort and behaved like most well-off young men behave (or don’t behave). He loved music. Parties. Hunting. But one day, selling his father’s goods in the marketplace, a beggar approached him and pleaded for alms. Francis gave him everything in his pockets, including the money for what he’d been selling. His father was furious.

One of several side chapels in the basilica. When I was there, glorious music was being made by a large group of students from Dallas TX, who had come to Assisi to sing a Mass. I wanted to stay there and listen, but I had to catch up with my tour group.

Later, he joined a military expedition, was captured, and was kept prisoner for a year. Back in Assisi, he rejoined his friends for good times and worked with his father, but was also plagued with a serious illness. He began to refocus on the beauty of simple things, especially nature, which is why he is honored as the Patron Saint of Animals and the Environment.

Francis tended the poor and the sick, particularly lepers. Here, he bathes a man who needs his help, and Lonzo supervises.

Legends have bloomed like the flowers Francis loved, and it’s hard to distinguish truth from wishful thinking. But some events are recorded, as when the always furious father dragged him to a public meeting with the Bishop. Francis had been helping restore a countryside church, using money from his father’s business. Ordered to return whatever had been given him by his father, he passed over everything his carried and removed all his clothes, for they had come from his father as well. Buck-nekkid, he stood in front of everyone who was anyone in Assisi, and then he returned to the countryside.

A friend joined him there, and another, and others as well. He must have had a compelling personality. They worked on the derelict churches he was rebuilding, and accompanied him to Rome where Francis and the rag-tag group of young men asked for the Church’s permission to establish a religious order. It was granted. Later, Francis helped a wealthy young woman, whose goals marched along with his, to establish a convent of cloistered nuns. The Poor Clares, they were called, and like the Franciscan order of men, they still exist today. In Spain, Pat and I saw the convents of many Poor Clares communities.

Where Francis slept when staying at the church he was rebuilding.

Francis died when he was in his mid-forties, and centuries later, the Franciscan Order continues to thrive. At the core of it’s mission lies this goal: “To follow the teachings of Our Lord Jesus Christ and to walk in his footsteps.” There is a strong commitment to poverty, respect for all of God’s creations, and care for those in need. He was canonized as saint two years after his death, and at that time, the pope laid the cornerstone for his basilica.

 

This poem has been put to music many times. You can find several of them on YouTube

Let’s give the last words to Francis himself:

Lord, make me an instrument of your peace. Where there is hatred, let me sow love; Where there is injury, pardon; where there is doubt, faith; Where there is despair, hope; Where there is darkness, light; Where there is sadness, joy.

Oh Divine Master, grant that I may not so much seek to be consoled, as to console; to be understood, as to understand, to be loved, as to love.

For it is in giving that we receive. It is in pardoning that we are pardoned, and it is in dying that we are born to Eternal Life.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S631tbfalF8

 


 

 

 

 

.

 

 

 

Afoot and Apaw in Tuscany (Lynn Kerstan and Lonzo)

The picture of Jesus is lovely and traditional. But the expression on the face of Mary’s statue is somewhat horrified.

When touring Italy, we inevitably found ourselves spending a lot of time in churches. The large cities like Florence and Sienna boast more than one enormous cathedral, and every small town is wrapped around its parish church. The people take great care of the places where they go to pray, and even tiny churches contain beautiful statues and paintings and tiles and mosaics. Most are very traditional, but now and again, an artist puts aside the expected traditional images and indulges in something unusual.

Lonzo does his best to organize the few scattered candles on the table.

After our trip to Spain, which is bejeweled with great houses of worship, Lonzo lost interest in seeing even more churches. But it’s my habit to provide a small donation and light a candle in every church I enter, so he reluctantly came along. In Pienza, we happened to arrive just as Sunday Mass was getting underway. A couple of kids noticed him and wanted to pet him, but their parents dragged them to another pew. They probably wondered what a woman of my age was doing with a toy leopard. I stuffed him in my purse.

Lonzo tries to decipher the symbols in the basilica of St. Francis, who would probably rather the church was kept simple and the money given to the poor.

Even the floors of churches can be works of art. This image is contained in the great basilica of Assisi. Every square inch of that church is covered with images. It’s worth a blog of its own, so I’ll save the pictures for some other week.

I’m not sure what this was meant to represent–probably St. Francis– but I really like it. Such joy in this picture!

Almost everywhere you look in Italy, you see fountains and statues, gardens and mosaics, some very small. If there was a small bare place, someone created something of beauty to fill it.

This is a tiny side-street with residences on both sides. it seems like each family made a point of turning it into a lovely, colorful place to live.

This is true in the smallest of towns and in the largest of cities. Between the great museums, the splendid basilicas, the glorious countryside, and the surprising art that appears everywhere to delight passes-by, it’s true to say that in Italy, there is nearly always something that calls you over to have a look. And causes you to look back over your shoulder when you have to leave.

I admit I’m a sucker for history, and seeing all these centuries-old towns was like tasting great champagne. Lavish beauty, simple beauty, natural beauty everywhere.

I need to go back to Italy.

 

Visit to a Tuscan Winery (Lynn Kerstan)

Scores of barrels, many larger than these, were stacked in the centuries-old building.

As Pat will testify, I am fond of wine. Not a connoisseur, to be sure, because I’m happy with just about any sort of wine. Which meant that I couldn’t fully appreciate (although I greatly enjoyed) the visit to Fattoria del Colle, where truly fine wine is produced. What makes the winery even more special is this: It’s owned and managed by a woman, and so is the sommelier,  the taster who decides when a wine is ready to be bottled and sold. Pretty much unheard of in Italy and fine-wine circles, until Donatella Cinelli Colombina took charge. She decided to specialize in upscale wine, specifically Brunello. I’d never heard of it.

I wish I could remember the story attached to the picture. It’s based in the history of the estate many centuries ago. Clearly, someone is being rescued.

The first person to live on the property, centuries ago, was a hermit. Later, soldiers came to defend the 13th-century tower, now part of the structure. Much later, the Grand Duke of Tuscany used it as a secret romantic hideaway. A few centuries after that, an ancestor of the present owner built the estate in much its present form. Nowadays there’s a swimming pool, accommodations for weekend stays, cooking lessons, tastings of wine and olive oil, archery and weddings. Tour groups like ours are always welcome.

Another story I don’t know. Sorry. If someone else on the tour remembers it well enough, I’ll provide an update.

Two stories, probably legends, from the history of the estate are represented in a pair of fascinating paintings. I wound up standing in the back, where I could scarcely hear Donatella’s explanations, but she later assured me that they capture true stories passed down from the Middle Ages.

Everywhere we went, I saw fields of odd-looking supports for grapevines that will be attached as the season for growing grapes gets underway.

I was astounded by the many enormous, beautiful, polished barrels in which the wines were stored for aging. I was equally astonished by the field of odd-looking branches (?) which I had seen elsewhere as we drove through Tuscany. We were there in early March, and it was too soon for the vines to be planted and supported by the branch-thingies. No sign of a grape.

 

 

Our group enjoys a light lunch of bread, olive oil, cheese, and wine. Emphasis on the wine. I remember very little that happened after that.

After touring the main buildings, we settled in for wine tasting and a light meal of crusty bread topped with olive oil and three varieties of aged pecorino cheese to match the three glasses of wine. Everything was utterly delicious.

The Wall of Honor (for women only)

But alas, the excursion was coming to a close. We all staggered outside and saw metallic vats that probably had something to do with wine or, maybe, something else Fattoria del Colle’s was up to. I expected our bus would be drawn up and waited, but we were led to a wall with embossed tiles.

To honor women of achievement , Donatella established an award and presents it each year to the chosen winner. Each tile describes the reason the winner was chosen. Donatella and her business partner understand the barriers women too often face in business, politics, and life in general. Her own  success is testament that women can overcome obstacles and . When they do, everyone benefits. It’s a lesson most countries and people have yet to learn.

Lonzo and Lynn Head South (Lynn Kerstan)

Lonzo makes sure the tour bus is going the right direction.

Although I am reluctant to leave Venice behind—I’ll be setting parts of Dangerous Betrayals there—Lonzo has been studying the map and wishes this virtual tour to venture south. It was a long bus ride to Cianchiano, where we checked into the hotel that would be our home base for a week. No constant packing and unpacking. Each day after breakfast, we’d climb onto the bus and enjoy the glorious scenery of

Cianchiano Terme, a spa town, centrally located.

A row of Tuscany’s landmark cedar trees lining a road that leads to a large residence.

Tuscany on our way to wonderful places. Here’s how things looked on a mild, overcast day. Many of the elegant homes are up for sale, the upkeep being more than the owners can manage. Some are converting a portion of the house to B&B accommodations.

Here’s a picture of an especially steep picture Tuscan hill town, Radicofani, with roads unwelcoming to a bus. Nearly every prominence is topped with a hill town. Much safer to be perched up high, where lookouts can spot enemies or robbers. And alert the locals when a bus filled with tourists is approaching so that the shops and eateries can prepare for a welcome invasion.

Radicofani, looking from a distance like a chocolate birthday cake with one candle.

The view, looking over the city wall. Those little pale-leaved trees are olive trees. There are groves of them all over Italy.

As you can imagine, the views from these hill towns are breathtaking, especially on a clear, sunny day. We had lots of those and enjoyed each and every one. The town of Pienza was especially beautiful and interesting, in part because several centuries ago, a pope chose it as a summer escape from hot, humid Rome. He was specific about the design of Pienza’s church, and we happened to be there on a Sunday. So I decided to attend Mass and was able to experience a typical Sunday morning in company with most of the town’s resident. A good choir, too, with lots of adults and children singing like angels.

But the day was far from over. We were on our way to an upscale winery owned and run by women! More about that next week.