One of the day trips from our ship was to Baden Baden located deep in the Black Forest, and it was as enchanting as I’d expected.

Baden Baden was one of the few German cities to escape destruction during World War II, mainly because it was a recreational area without any nearby war production facilities. Nestled in the thickly forested mountains, it was for centuries the playground for the wealthy from throughout Europe. Royalty and aristocracy would come from all corners to gamble in the world’s top casino, experience the hot springs and take the Kur – a sauna, massage, and utter restfulness. Even Mark Twain visited Baden, remarking that “I fully believe I left my rheumatism there.” Two castles overlook the town.

The Trinkhalle (Drinking Hall)

We didn’t have time to take the Kur, a two hour plus process, but we did visit the Grand Casino. Inspired by the Palace of Versailles, it was built in the 1850′s and was called by Marlene Dietrich the most beautiful Casino in the world.

Our guide painted pictures in words the beautifully gowned women and elegantly dressed gentlemen pulling up in carriages. Unfortunately it was the main floor of the casino was closed when we were there, but we were allowed in the lobby to glimpse its grandeur.

The Paintings that line the exterior of the Trinkhalle

Then it was on to the Trinkhalle, its long entrance hall decorated with nymphs and romantic legends. Inside we had a glass of the mineral water which is supposed to do wondrous things for one’s health. I had a glass and perhaps it was my imagination, but yes, I had more energy.

Then we went to the Christmas Market and it was one of the largest and most varied of any we visited during the trip. There were rows and rows of the decorated wooden huts, but these included such treats as Black Forest Ham and gingerbread cookies for which the area is famous. I bought several packages of the former to bring back to Memphis and consumed the latter. Then I was tempted by a wonderfully long piece of dough fried in oil and sugared. I shared with others in the group, then regretted the sharing. One myth broken. I’d always heard German food was bland, but I found that totally wrong. The ham was fantastic when consumed in Memphis, the best ham I’ve ever had. And, of course, there was more hot wine to warm us while browsing among the many booths. I found several gifts, including a lovely hand-worked silver medallion necklace and a softly woven silver scarf.

Manger Scene at Christmas Market

It was raining, which accounts for few photos, but I loved every moment of picturesque Baden Baden. The Cathedral was lovely and the downtown charming. Both the city and the ride through the Black Forest were well worth every minute spent there.

The history is fascinating as well. Around 1000 B.C. Celtic tribes inhabited much of the area and their influence is still felt in the names of the rivers, forests and towns. The Roman emperor Hadrian founded the first permanent settlement and there are still remnants of their Roman baths. During the Middle Ages, the province was renamed Baden after a town of the same name.

The Cathedral at Baden Baden

 I minored in history in College, but these recent trips to Europe have brought it all so alive, and I’m hungry for more. You can read about it in books, but seeing these towns and village and cities and learning their history puts history into perspective.